Last night it snowed again, big fat flakes silently falling from the sky. It happened during shavasana in the beginners class. I was afraid for everyone to look and see it. I am not as tired of the snow as they are, since I missed most of it, and it was beautiful to me!

So, I am waiting to find out how India changed me! If you see any differences let me know!

Actually, I can feel a subtle shift- I am moving slower than I usually do. My practice is sweeter- I am savoring my movements and letting go of more movement for just being. I am thinking that this trip will unfold in me slowly, and I will notice things very gradually. I have discovered one thing. I went with expectations of learning from the yoga teacher in India. I did value my time with him. But, we find our teachers in the most unexpected of places. Our guide in the wildlife preserve was one of those people. He runs Jeep safaris every day, and you would think it might get monotonous after awhile. But I could tell by his body language and the sheer delight on his face that he truly was in that place, in that moment, completely and utterly transfixed by the beauty around him. I am so happy I met him, and that I was able to recognize what was happening. He gave me a gift that day, and I will not forget it. There are not too many people that you find these days that find joy in very simple things- like walking quietly, surrounded by nature.He was equally delighted we enjoyed his favorite spots.

I also found a teacher  in Lingham, my driver in Hyderabad, who chanted the Gayatri Mantra in the car with me on the way to yoga class and allowed me to accompany him to the temple. Even though he had to wait for me as I toured or shopped, he always greeted me with a smile and warmth.The people in India seem very happy. I did not hear any rudeness or shaking of fists at each other as they drove. The first time I felt any “attitude” was when I arrived at the Philadelphia airport and said hello to an employee there, who stared right through me!

I am happy to be back in the studio, and see everyone, and I am happy you were able to come with me on the journey- India is not so far away since you all experienced it too.

So, I am thinking this travel stuff is good! I am pretty much a homebody- sometimes I go for days on end without leaving the property. I am satisfied with being here, in this protected spot, lucky that you all come for class, so I am not a total hermit! I have everything I need. When I do venture out, though, I love it! I am thinking that there are many more places to go- Bali, Italy, Costa Rica, Hawaii. I would love to organize a retreat, and take you with me! Let me know where you want to go, and we will plant the seed, and nurture it together. There is so much to experience.

I have kept journals since 1973. My very favorite books growing up were the Anne of Green Gable series by L.M. Montgomery. In one of my entries, I wrote down one of her little proverbs. Anne, the most wonderful red headed girl in the world says,

“There is so much in the world for us all if we only have the eyes to see it, and the heart to love it, and the hand to gather it to ourselves-so much in men and women, so much in art and literature, so much everywhere in which to delight, and for which to be thankful.” Aahh, so true!

I have been on many planes in the last 24 hours. I would love to change my clothes , and actually lie flat to sleep without my neck in weird positions. We boarded the Kingfisher airline in Cochin, after dipping our feet in the Indian ocean in Alleppy, and visiting 2 churches, a palace and several bazaars and shops. I did not bring back the gorgeous 42” 5 metal statue of Shiva dancing the divine cosmic dance of fire, (known to some of you as Nataraja) but I have a family of rosewood elephants to remind me of the elephant family in Thekkady and henna designs on my palms. We stopped at some street vendors, and the woman took wooden stamps and covered my palms with graceful designs. A group gathered around us, and I bought some of the stamps before she covered my whole arms with designs! We ate lunch in an old hotel. When we arrived at the airport, I was very sad to say good bye to Biju, I just brought my hands to my heart and said Nonni, which is thank you in kerala. In India, a woman should never initiate a handshake. (I also found out that Namaskaram is good morning in Kerala, and Namaste is good morning in northern India.)

We arrived in Mumbai, formerly known as Bombay for our connecting flight to London. WOW! This was another totally different experience. The airport is a massive crush of humanity, even at 11:30 at night! Tons of traffic, beeping horns, close calls, luggage everywhere. There is lots of security - stern looking armed guards, and people pushing and talking in many different languages. Kind of a semi organized but scary chaos. There were several security checkpoints and body searches. I no longer smile but raise my arms and let them frisk me. This is serious business. It is amazing it is not more volatile. Long lines everywhere. There are separate lines for women and men to be searched. The flights to and from London and India are packed. . Our flight took off at 2:45 am and we had a dinner of Pizza Hut before we boarded! (Tasted strange to eat pizza) I was very happy to get on the plane and leave Mumbai behind. We immediately went to sleep and awoke somewhere over Russia a few hours later. When we arrived in London for a short layover I was glad to be there. Even in London there are many more security checkpoints than I am used to.

So, somewhere over the Atlantic Ocean, on the last leg of the trip home, I am finishing the last entry for this particular journey. My mind is starting to look ahead to the weekend, and coming home, wondering about the snow, wanting to see my children and all my pets- my chickens and goats. The dogs will whine and bark and lick my face when we walk in the door, and the everything will look different to me. (It always does when I arrive home!) The cats will decide in their own time if they will acknowledge me or not. I will sleep in my own bed, and gather the girls around me to pull out all the treasures from my suitcases. I will go to the studio and sit by the fire, thinking of where I have been. I am looking forward to seeing you all. Even though you have followed my journey, I need to catch up on yours! I will begin my life again here, teaching and sharing this yoga which is so different here, but grounded in the stillness and beauty of India. I hope I can share that essence with you.

Until we meet again. Namaskaram! Om Shanti!

This morning I went to yoga. It is by the pavilion looking out over the lake. It was 7 am, and the sun was rising and there was a fine mist over the lake. Fishermen had started to make their way out, silently rowing by. The resort was not awake yet. I was early to yoga of course, and waited until the other students and teacher arrived. There was myself, about 8 British tourists and 1 Indian teacher. There were cotton padded fabric mats on the tile floor of the pavilion. I sat in half lotus and heard one of the other students say- oh look she looks like she is good! Competition- even halfway around the world! We began in a short meditation and then some chanting. Then we practiced. Gentle stretches, like the joint strengthening series we sometimes do, and then shavasana. Pranayama, and then shavasana. More pranayama, shavasana. Twists, shavasana. Supine (reclining) poses shavasana. This lasted about an hour with a final ending of -you guessed it, shavasana. Larry came to take quietly take pictures, but could not figure out why I was lying down that much! There were only 1 or 2 pictures of yoga and many of one bird that caught his attention instead. It was a nice experience, just not what I am used to. I could not stop giggling to myself!

After a last dip in the pool and a wonderful outdoor shower, we had breakfast, scurried around to pack and be picked up in time for our `date with the houseboat in Alleppy, 2 hours away.

I know I describe our driver as a crazy driver, but I should put that in perspective. He has taken very good care of us, and I have felt very safe in his capable hands. Biju is wonderful! When the travel agent told us we had a car and a driver for the entire trip from Cochin Airport, down to Kumarakom and back, I thought it was a little much. But here in India, I was counting my blessings every time he drove us. The drivers have a small bag for themselves, and they wait for you wherever you go. It is customary for him to sleep in the car (I was horrified at first, but he seemed quite used to the arrangement) and he magically appeared whenever we needed him. If I had to switch drivers and taxis every time we moved, it would have been a much more arduous and cumbersome journey. He was translator, protector and tour guide all rolled into one.

Moving right along, as we drove from Kumarakom to Alleppy, the landscape again changed from rural areas to small towns to one big congested town. Temples, churches, stores, hotels, people, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, more people everywhere! It was a long, bumpy, congested 2 hour drive. India seems to be either very quiet or very loud. Right after we passed a rice plantation, we turned off the road and made our way under a bridge to the side of the backwaters. We thought surely we must have been mistaken about Biju, and sadly, this was the end of the road. It was funny too, because I had a weird feeling that something was not right. We got out of the car, and felt better as we walked around the corner and saw a fleet of houseboats waiting to pick up their passengers. The houseboats are boats that were used to carry rice on the backwaters and have been retrofitted to have a bedroom (some have 3 bedrooms), a kitchen, room for the crew, and a sitting room that is covered, but open air that includes a dining area. We opted for a one night stay and were to board at 12 and be delivered back to the dock at 9 the next morning. After presenting our travel voucher, I knew my intuition was correct when Biju, the owner of the establishment and a few of his employees began talking rapidly in Indian and gesturing to the log book. It seemed that our houseboat had traveled to the resort to pick us up, and at that very moment was waiting for us in Kumarakom! Major bummer!

After much discussion of waiting for it to cruise back, (not a great idea, it was hot and 2 hours to wait seemed an eternity) or drive back to meet it at the resort. (not great either). Finally, after spotting a small speedboat, we inquired as to whether they would take us by boat to board the houseboat! I have to say, I had some qualms. That boat was very small, and because of my enthusiastic shopping trips our luggage would probably sink it! We decided to leave some luggage with Biju, and with no small trepidation found ourselves ensconced in the small boat with luggage piled around us and took off to find our houseboat. I looked back at the shore and waved to Biju, who had a huge smile on his face and was laughing along with the others- my expression must have looked terrified to say the least! Thankfully, that little boat sped us to our destination, actually missing it by bout 2 kilometers, and had to turn around. When we found it we made a mid-lake transfer, much to the curious stares of the other people on their houseboats who must have wondered how on earth we managed to do this! Several tourists even took pictures of us as we sped by. Greeted by the crew, the captain, first mate and chef, we finally sat in the 2 chairs and started to cruise down the backwaters. I honestly felt like a queen- my very own houseboat and crew. The trip was magical. Away from the chaotic town and the heat, a breeze moved through the cabin. The boat is very long, about 60-70 feet long. The hull is a thick wood construction. The cabin frame is finished with a combination of woven rattan an polished wood accents. It reminded me of a cocoon, with a comfortable nest inside. The stern has the dining and viewing space, with 2 comfortable wicker chairs and pillows to prop you up. The bedroom is air conditioned, with an attached bathroom. Then the full kitchen allows the chef to prepare delicious meals for you. The backwaters are manmade and were created to flood the rice fields behind them. It reminded me of the canals in Bucks County with the tow paths, only much wider, wide enough for a house and a garden. So there are the rice paddies, a strip of land where the houses are built, and then the backwaters. It is like Venice, Italy- the only way to reach your house is by water, and their is a path winding the whole way down the water. There are stone steps from the water to each house. You will find the women washing dishes and clothes there, the sound of them slapping the fabrics on the stones. They even bathe there, and we saw many of the women washing their long, beautiful dark hair. They go into the water fully clothed. In the beginning I felt a little intrusive taking pictures, but it did not seem to bother them at all. I though how funny it must seem to them that people want to take their pictures doing their dishes and their wash, and had a funny thought of them coming to Bucks county and photographing me as I stood next to the washing machine or loaded the dishwasher! They were very tolerant. The houses are simple but beautiful. I could not imagine living this life every day, the temperature balmy and simple. I am sure there are times they are not happy, but it seemed so peaceful and enticing. Every so often I would see an abandoned house with vines and flowers growing up around it, and old iron gate and gardens waiting to be tended. I imagined moving into one, and taking my place on the banks, washing my clothes there, and walking along the path with my market purchases on my head! It was tempting! There are several stone docks- ferry and water taxi stands to take people places. The other thing I noticed were all the birds. The most common is a slender white egret, standing in the water fishing. There are lots of varieties of Kingfishers, one being an amazing shade of blue with an orange-brown head. The kingfisher has been used as the name of an airline and a delicious beer in India. There are black ducks that find a twig growing from the water and stand on it, and many crows squawking away. We cruised for several hours, were served a delicious lunch of fresh vegetables, a whole fish caught that morning in the lake, cooked with spices, and kerala rice that resembles risotto. The grains of this are fat and nutty. The captain would point out different birds and answer our questions, but for the most part we moved in blissful silence, the crows and sounds of the people occasionally wafting our way, the gentle thumping of the boats engine.

A few hours later we rendezvoused with a wooden longboat, disembarked and went into one of the more narrow waterways on the side of the main backwater. There were several schools right before this, and the school day was done. There were grandmothers patiently waiting for their grandchildren, and two boys caught my attention as they ran down the paths next to the water on their way home. You could tell they were used to the attention and showed off their running speed, laughing and racing each other, their school uniforms on, backpacks on their backs. The houses were very close to the water, and we saw the women up even closer the before. The chickens would stand on the edge of the canals, and there were more baby goats, dogs and an occasional cat. Children were everywhere, waving back to us and smiling shyly when we took their pictures. We finally went back to the boat, and were taken to buy our dinner at the fish market. Huge prawns, to be later cooked by the chef. Next stop was the place we would dock for the night, as well as watch the sun go down. We sat by the edge of the water as it gently rocked the boat. There were several houseboats docked here, and as we watched the sunset, the crew met up with other crews from the boats and played a lively game of volleyball in a nearby field. Click to listen to the music from the cruise. 

It was bittersweet to awaken the next morning, we knew it had been our last night in India. We started our cruise back to the houseboat dock and I began to understand why people stay for so long. We only saw a fraction of what India has to offer. I know I only got a taste of this beautiful country. I also knew in this limited time that I wanted to connect with the wild parts- to see the forests and jungles, the native animals, and to stand in the quiet spaces. I felt I made good choices with the time that I had. I also was honored to experience people of India-the huge populations of the cities, the slower paced people in the backwaters.. The contrasts are amazing. The dress as well as the dialect changes as you move from state to state. The homeless lie in the streets as the world moves around them. I would have liked to know all of their stories and I know there are things happening there that we cannot even imagine. I also wonder what the Indian women’s lives are really like. We take our freedom for granted as women here in the US. There were several times I was treated as though I was not there, and I felt a difference in the status between men and women. We stepped off the boat.

Biju was waiting, and we started our last day in India.

After leaving the Wild Corridor hotel, we made our way down through the town of Kumily to the elephant ranch. This is a delightful place with very happy elephants that do not have to work hard at all, but give silly tourists rides all day long, with breaks for tourists showering them and watching them drag timbers. It is a nice shady ranch, with the elephants lined up in their open shed, happily eating palm leaves. There is one male with beautiful long ivory tusks. I was somewhat hesitant to commit to this activity, as I do not like heights at all and no seat belts , but agreed to it after being bribed to visit an Ayurvedic herb and spice plantation. We were shown to the deck overlooking the elephants, and I realized that to get on an elephant you have to get high enough to reach them in the first place. I thought they politely knelt down so you could step up to them, but no, there is a loading dock. So the elephant , a 7 year old female, named Oshi, sways up to the loading dock and stops. I have to climb on top of the elephant saddle ( not sure if that is what it is called!) and hold on for dear life. It was an interesting feeling to be up that high in the air. I am pretty sure I was hyperventilating! Then we began to walk the elephant trail. Once I realized I probably would not fall off, I began to enjoy the ride. I carefully reached out to pet her, and there are stubby hairs all over her skin, like a really stiff feeling crew cut. Once you get past that, her actual skin is rather soft. She is trained to curl her trunk up when she gets her picture taken, and stayed directly on the path and sauntered along. Her ears were amazing! They were ruffled and grey, with spots showing through the backs which were pink! She seemed fairly happy, and was very well behaved. Along the path are peoples houses. They went about their business, washing their clothes and tending to their livestock. There were gorgeous roosters and plump chickens with their chicks and the most adorable baby goats that looked like stuffed animals. She was led by a man who took many pictures for us, and explained all the plants along the way-mangos, bananas, coffee plants. He gave me a flower to tuck behind my ear so I looked like a Kerala girl riding the elephant, Once the ride was over, she went back to her loft and continued eating her breakfast-palm tree leaves.. I was sorry to disembark.

Next stop was an Ayurvedic herb plantation. We pulled over to the side of the road, and went in. Our guide was a wonderful gentleman who told us he had an economic degree but in Kerala there is no work for degree holders so he is working as a guide in the plantation and he hopes we tell everyone that Kerala is a good place to travel and support the local economy and give everyone great tips! ( This was said in 1 long breath) We began to walk through a garden of plants, many familiar to me with medicinal qualities. It was like a living pharmacy. Here are a few of the more interesting ones. Hibiscus, made into a paste is good for hair loss and dandruff. Coffee, drunk pure, with no chicory added is best for your health. Nasturtium is good for constipation, and nutmeg is good for sleep and diarrhea. It seems that anything that is wrong with you can be fixed with one of these plants on the hillside. Ayurveda is a way of life here, and there are many ayurvedic clinics and homeopathic stores in the villages. I did not see one English pharmacy, and od not even know if they know what an Advil is here. After the tour there was an opportunity to buy some of the spices and herbs. The shops shelves were lined with packets of spices and bottles and jars of tonics. Of course I could not resist, and purchased many wonderful spices. My guide was very happy! I have several bottles of dark, icky smelling tonics, and Larry even took a gooey spoonful of daisy, good for sinus and congestion! We came at the right time, because as we were leaving, a tour bus pulled up and their tour began ( I cannot imagine where they parked on this skinny road). Everywhere we have gone we have been lucky enough to avoid the crowds-our tour was very private, and we asked many questions.

As we were shopping, we met a newly married couple on their honeymoon. She was exquisite, in a sparkling blue sari, and they both had henna designs on their hands, his name on her hands, and hers on his hands as part of the wedding ceremony. They asked to take their picture with us. Then we took theirs- he said the wife always sits on the left side of her husband to be closest to his heart! She was very quiet and he did all the talking. He insisted on giving us his email in case we needed anything in India. The people are very friendly and helpful here. They seemed very happy. The wedding seems to be a huge deal here. When we were at the hotel in Hyderabad, there was an arranged wedding meeting going on. Both families meet and discuss the marriage. The couple sits at separate tables. If an agreement is reached, they go away, to come back a different day. This time the couple meets with the families, and then they have a private dinner together and the rest of the family leaves. On that particular night, the rooftop deck was decorated with candles, heart shaped balloons, a romantic table set for 2, and red roses on the table. What an auspicious beginning! There are many beautiful rituals and ceremonies in India.

So, to continue on with our journey. We stopped and bought tea, harvested right from the hills. No tour-we were anxious to get to Kumarakom to the resort there, and what the distance is on the map is not always true to how long it takes you to get there!

Again we drove through small villages, rural areas, a big bustling town, and finally you could see the landscape change and the actual land start to show itself.- green again. We arrived in Kumarakom, after winding our way back down the mountain with our drivers usually breakneck speed! The resort is located on Lake Vembannatto, the largest lake in Kerala. The resort, Kumarakom Lake Resort has been the top hotel in Kerala for the last 4 years, and rightly so. As we drove through the large iron gate, the staff appears to greet you, and you enter an amazing open air lobby, with traditional Kerala architecture- and carved beams. The clay tile roof shingles have a design on the back so it shows through the rafters. The lake is in view, and a magnificent breeze cooled you. Our room was called meandering pool villas, which meant we had our own bungalow with our own delicious pool that was surrounded by native plants -completely private, an oasis! As you pulled open the heavy wood doors to the bungalow, complete with the most amazing decorative door handle I have ever seen, you then stepped over the raised threshold (it is higher to keep out evil spirits) and entered a beautiful room, serene and comfortable. The best part though, was the bathroom. It was a full bathroom completely open air. The shower was in its own whole section, with granite stones for a floor over smaller river stones the water drained through! It had high walls around it ensuring privacy, with the roof architecture peaking through, and this looked like a work of art. It was like brushing your teeth in a garden. Each piece of the timbers in the buildings here were painstakingly carved and aged to perfection.

We ate a late lunch in the restaurant by the lake. The food here is not as spicy as in Hyderabad and suits my taste more. I ate some deep fried bitter gourd with cashes that was amazing. There is a lot of okra and fresh vegetables, a lot of beautiful fruit (you do have to be careful about what you eat, so I mainly look at those) . The rule is, cooked food , fruit you peel yourself, (knives used to cut and may be contaminated with bacteria in the water), and only bottled water to drink (no ice) and brush your teeth with. I have felt fine. We are also taking malaron, as a preventative measure to ward off malaria from mosquito bites. The bugs are not too bad, and the hotels all have mosquito repellant plug ins in the rooms. Seems a shame to have to take so many precautions.

After lunch, a dip in our pool. This is high season, so it was very busy. There is an infinity pool at the edge of the lake, but our own pool was so nice. Afterwards it was late afternoon, so we took a sunset cruise with music provided by local musicians drumming and playing the flute, along with something that sounded like a harmonium. The sky changed from bright sun to a ball of orange, but it disappeared before hitting the horizon. The cruise on the lake was nice, even without a spectacular sunset. Then to dinner, with a cultural program. A man in a Kerala costume with green face paint. He performed a 400 year old traditional dance called Kathakali  to a story about Shiva, a woman and Hanuman. He used  music, facial expressions and different parts of his costume to illustrate the characters. Kathakali combines facets of ballet, opera, masque and pantomime. What that man could do with his eyebrows! His expression changed convincingly from male to a very flirtatious female to hanuman, the monkey god with the puffy cheeks! It was very cool.

Tomorrow we board a houseboat to cruise the backwaters. Looking forward to it.

On the way the he stopped at a tea house- a stone shack on the side of the road with a simple wooden table and benches. The man there made us wonderful tea with cardamom. It was frothy at the top like the coffee I had in Hyderabad, but it was an art to make it! He boiled the water, and had a long filter bag that he poured the water through, over the tea. Then he held 2 glasses, one at arm height, one stretched out, and poured the tea from glass to glass then it became frothy and he added pinch of cardamom. An Indian latte! We sat in the dark morning with another couple on Jeep safari from Paris! As the day became lighter, we arrived at the entrance to the sanctuary. There are many requirements, papers to be filled out, and if you carry a camera you are charged an extra fee.

The preserve is a mix of evergreens, deciduous trees, palms, ferns, flat areas, ravines and hills. At times I felt like I was in Bucks county, and other times like no where else I have ever seen! The driver took the roof down and we sat, ready to see elephants, tigers and monkeys! Do not get too excited-there is only a 10% chance of seeing a tiger. There are between 40-50 tigers in the preserve, and only 1800 in all of India.

He said maybe we will be half lucky to see an elephant. As we drove into the preserve, it was quite chilly. I was sorry I did not have a jacket. In the distance we could see jeeps pulled over, everyone looking in the distance. High on the hill, surrounded by a mist was a family of elephants- about 6, including a baby! Through the binoculars I could see them eating and the mother gently prodding her baby every once in a while. As the sun began to rise they became clearer. They were so serene in their own environment. We stayed, watching them peacefully for quite awhile.

I loved our guide. He seemed to have a reverence for the forest, stopping as often as he could to turn off the engine and just listen to the sounds. He would stop and so, “One of my two favorite places!“ and then just walk quietly, lifting an eyebrow every so often, or describing a sound to me. Monkeys calling, many different birds, the sound of seeds dropping and hitting the ground. The sounds of the jungle are from this exact spot. We saw monkeys high up jumping from tree to tree with pure abandon and much agility, birds that imitated our voices and black squirrels with tails like our black cat Jasper, but bigger than he is, with soft brown faces.

Once we arrived at the bungalow, we were treated to a Kerala breakfast (delicious) and then began our 3 hour trek. Our group consisted of the couple from Paris, Patricia and Etienne, and a husband and wife, Jason and Maristella from Lancaster, PA -of all places! The trek took us through 7 miles of jungle. We saw amazing trees with huge roots, a section where cicada like insects were having an extremely loud concert, and elephant dung along the paths. So we were trekking elephant trails! Sometimes the elephants take a shortcut to the water and you can see their path as they come through the palms and bamboo and their huge footprints. The place is magical, with every step you realize you are walking on the Indian earth, and it is amazing. As you walk, it is truly easy to be in the moment. You are completely mindful. The sounds of the jungle, the trees roots that creates steps in the path, the constant sounds. There is a coolness under the canopy of the trees and then the suns rays streaming through the branches like a blessing to the earth. I do not think, there is any other place like this. What a joy to be able to experience it. It is like heaven on earth.

Tired and happy ,we ended the trek with a great lunch and a delicious dessert made of noodles, tapioca, raisins and cashews. We` exchanged emails with our new friends and began our way home.

Immediately after we arrived back at the hotel, around 4 pm, we were whisked away for our ayurvedic massages. If you do not want to read all the details of my massage, you should stop here!

My body was aching for some TLC, and I was looking forward to it. After being lucky enough to be spoiled by massage therapists who are students at the studio, I was wondering what this would be like. An ayurvedic massage is very therapeutic, and in Kerala it is their specialty. I chose a royal hot oil massage including the head and neck. Here is my experience:

First, meet with the therapist -a tiny , beautiful young girl in a sari. She takes me into a room with no windows, a table clad with vinyl and bowls of oil set up. No room for modesty here! She demands my clothes and hangs them up 1 by 1 as I hand them to her-I could tell she would not take no for an answer so I complied, eventually standing naked in front of her. She then inquires as to how old I am, looks me up and down (!) nods her approval (to my relief)and then ties a disposable loin cloth around me. (very strange) Next, I sit on the table and she stands in front of me, oil in her hand, and prays. The she puts the oil in different places in my hair, and I lay down. For the next hour I am massaged with long strokes from head to toe- she is following the meridian lines. There is a beautiful rhythm to the strokes, and this tiny girl is very strong. She presses, massages, pummels, and then flips me over for more massaging and thumping and puts enough oil on me to deep fry me. Hence the vinyl table. I am lucky I did not slide right off! This is a full body massage, so she also did my whole body, which made me feel very healthy and I could visualize toxins leaving with every stroke. I am pretty modest, so it was a leap of faith for me to just let go and be in this moment as well! My face was massaged with about a gallon of cream that smelled like roses. I am sure I look at least 20 years younger. I had to time her movements so I could breathe here and there. Cream up my nose, in my eyes, over my mouth!

Next she made me sit on a chair, still naked (loincloth intact)( I do not even care now, I am like a bowlful of jelly) and she did an Indian head massage. She massages the medicated oil (smelled like sesame but probably had other oils in it) all through my hair. Then she says, “Miss, please follow me”. Luckily I get a towel for this to wrap myself in, and she leads me to a room for a steam bath. This is a wooden container you sit in with a hole for your head. I do not have a picture, but I wish I did. In the box is a container of water that boiled continuously and emit’s a wonderful aroma. I sit on the chair, she closes the doors to the box, top and bottom. I rest my chin on the top of the box on a towel she has placed there for me. I beg her not to forget about me, and again, I am totally in the moment. I could not be anywhere else obviously! It felt amazing! After 15 minutes of bliss and sweat, , I am led to a shower with jasmine shampoo and shower off as much of the oil as I can. She expertly ties a towel around my head, hands me my clothes back, one at a time, and I am done. I stagger back to my room. I am happy (and no longer very modest!)

Tomorrow we leave for the backwaters, an Ayurvedic spice plantation tour and to buy some of that wonderful masala tea. See you then.

Click here to see what the jungle sounds like!

Tonight I am in the middle of the jungle, in a room that is like a treehouse, with the sounds of the night around me, crickets, and those stars that are huge and close to the earth. We have made our way on a very easy flight from Hyderabad to Cochin. From there we were picked up by a new driver, and headed to Thekkady, which is home to the Peryier Wildlife Preserve.

Kerala is a green lush place. As we drove, we went through small bustling towns and pineapple groves to forests of rubber trees andpalm trees.  The houses are traditional Kerala architecture- clay roofs and bungalows. There are not as many tent houses, and it looks as though there is not amuch poverty. Everything is softer and greener. Kerala has a lot of churches- big beautiful structures that suddenly appear in the most incongruous of places. It is a place of deep contrasts. Hindu temples and Catholic churches, women in gorgeous saris and a sari suit with a top and pants, schoolgirls in uniforms to men wearing traditional fabric wrapped around their waists and tucked in . A few even had them accentuate their rather large bellies. It was very interesting! It is a blend of the old and new, with that same spirituality threading through their everyday lives. They are kind and friendly and genuine. I am glad I am here.After about 2 hours of driving we started to go up into the mountains. The view took your breath away. We must be closer to heaven here. It was a magical experience, but also became quite hair-raising! The drivers here constantly weave in and out on the narrow road, and passing is on the right (driving on the left side remember) lots of horn beeping and very close calls with very big buses! This is all done 2 feet away from a 700 feet deep ravine. Ocean sounding breath helps!

I saw my first tea plantation. Bushy chai tea plants on hill after hill, all arranged in perfect order. There are also spice plantations of cardamom. Coffee plants by the sides of the roads. There are sacred` cows everywhere, and it is said the drivers will do whatever they have to do to avoid hitting one, even if they have to take out a person instead! (Not a good place to be a pedestrian!) We saw a few festival parades. They were led by drummers and musicians, the lead carrying a fringed silk red umbrella. The women and children were following in their bright saris carrying flowers for offering . The towns appear all at once, with little markets and stores, and then it is very rural. I saw a tailor who was sitting in an open air shed with his ancient Singer sewing machine on a table in the front. I am pretty sure I saw a barber that was the same setup! Larry did not need a trim, so we pressed on. We did get a little lost, ( not totally unexpected as the driver kept asking people for directions from the get go) only to be rescued by a very handsome Indian man who happened to work at the hotel, saw our car and said, “follow me!“ We finally arrived at the Wild Corridor Hotel and were served masala tea with milk and sugar on the veranda overlooking several mountains.. It was delicious.

On a side note, I learned 2 interesting things today.

In the rest rooms I have seen a spigot, a pail a cup and a drain in the floor. I assumed they like to keep their feet clean! NO! In India, many people clean themselves with their left hand (toilet paper is not used) and then use the spigot to clean their hands. Because of that they only eat with their right hands! Needless to say, I am glad I brought toilet paper to use as that arrangement does not appeal to me at all, although I am fine with everyone else doing what works for them. The other thing I learned , and witnessed, is, there are no trash cans in India.When people are done with their trash they throw it on the ground or out the car window. It was all I could do not to scamper off after the trash my guide threw on the ground when the wind blew it away. Someone reminded me that 30 years ago that was acceptable in the US. Now, it is like a travesty when you see someone do it. (Not to mention illegal!)

It made me realize what a responsibility it is to try and reduce this trash footprint. A lot of the reason India’s trash is such a problem is the influx of western packaged goods that have appeared- juice boxes and plastic bags, and the dreaded plastic water bottle which every tourist needs to use through out their stay. Something to think about!

We are staying about 20 minutes from the preserve. We had hoped to go on a bamboo rafting tour, (Larry nixed the nighttime jungle patrol for 3 hours at 3 am), but there was a boating accident on the lake a few years back, over 80 people drowned, so they have fewer boats now, and there were no reservations. So we decided instead we will go on a Jeep safari- we must be picked up at 5:30 am, ( I assume I will not care about the road or the buses at that time of day) then trek (hiking- they call it trekking here) for 3 hours in the jungle, then have lunch in a bungalow, and then home to an Ayurvedic massage (a Kerala specialty) We will hopefully take lots of “snaps” (pics) of elephants and other fabulous wildlife that show their faces!

I am glad I am here. Off to bed now, for my early rising to greet the sun and a new adventure!

Sitting in the club at the top of the hotel overlooking the Hussain Sagar Lake. It is very beautifully appointed,  with silk sari wallpaper and leather chairs.It is very peaceful here. This is the club for business visitors, so I am very lucky to be the only guest, as all the other guests are out and about in the city.  I am being pampered by the staff who bring me perfectly made coffee with frothy milk on the top. It is a contrast  to the hustle and bustle below.

Today is Maha Shivaratri (Night of Shiva)  a Hindu festival, celebrated all over the country with much enthusiasm. The festival is exclusively dedicated to Lord Shiva which is known by hundreds of names. The legend is of the Churning of the Ocean of Milk, in which the gods inadvertantly unearthed a poison that threatened to destroy the world. Shiva saved the day by drinking the poison, which accounts for his blue throat in some Hindu art.

It is said that Shiva was strong enough to handle the poison, but he had to stay awake all night as part of his healing. The other gods helped get him through the night by entertaining him with dances and other distractions. This is commemorated on Mahashivaratri, when Shiva’s followers keep him company through the night. Many Hindus fast throughout the day and offer prayers at the temples. Offices and schools are closed. My guide picked me up this morning with joyful music on the radio, and we visited the temple. We took our shoes off as we entered and joined the crowds walking on polished marble floors. This is an outdoor temple with relief sculptures telling the story of Shiva. Within the larger temples are sanctuaries for individual gods, including Hanuman and Shiva. As you walk up to the temple, everyone stops to pray and rings a brass bell several times. The priest offers you a handful of coconut milk and a strawberry. Then he places a silver cap on your head, a blessing. Some people knelt down and kissed the floor, some chanted. Candles were lit and there was much celebration. It reminded me of going to communion! These traditions we have studied are starting to feel more familiar as the gods come to life in the temples and all around me, in shops and hotels, statues in the parks. This is for real- a way of life that is constantly present for the people here.

I have finally gone to a yoga studio. As we drove, you could see the city begin to change, and the streets become cleaner, and the houses looked  like houses instead of a blend of shops and shacks and beautiful temples. The studio reminded me of the Prancing Peacock! Again a beautiful breeze was coming through. I have gone twice. The first day I met my teacher, Salil. He is an ex-business man who retired and is doing what he loves. We sat at a desk in the studio and he began by asking me about my yoga experiences. Since I am familiar with the asanas, he decided to focus on the yoga sutras! It was wonderful to sit with him and discuss the sutras. He did some pranayama with me and some meditations. After our session, I was invited to attend his wife’s Vedic chanting class. As I waited for class to begin, 6 Indian woman began to gather, with mantra textbooks in hand. She spread out 2 rugs, which we sat on, and the class casually began with a discussion of what chants to do that day. Then she opened with a prayer, and they began to chant! I did not have the text, so I just listened to the chanting. What a wonderful way to spend the morning. I was sad I would not be able to attend again. (You know what this means! Chanting classes at the studio!)It was nice to hear them done so well, and they were preparing for the festival today by chanting shiva’s mantras.  These chants, once you get the words down, are very healing, and it is almost as they flow from you by themselves.

The second day was an additional teaching on the Sutras. This non-asana practice was not what I expected, but I knew that whatever I needed to hear would be there and I opened myself to whatever he decided to teach me.  There is so much to learn! As complicated as these texts seem, the message is so simple. Mindfulness, compassion and being present in the moment. The asana practice is  just another tool, like meditation, and chanting. The texts encourages you to allow the yoga, in any form, to begin to extend into your life- to bring it off the mat. It is within us, we are just remembering it a little at a time- or maybe all at once! It is really like common sense. We know the right things to do,we just do not always listen!

So this stay in Hyderabad is almost over. Tomorrow we will travel to south India, Kerala. It will be very different, green and lush. I am getting used to the city but will be glad to have some space around me again.

Om namah Shivaya!

There has been a delightful breeze ever since we have  arrived. It is been very warm, but every palace, every temple and fort we visit has this serene breeze flowing through it. It is like the first day you feel the warm spring air move around you.

We arrived in the dark, but were treated to a serene ride to the hotel. (The last time I experienced any kind of serenity on the road!) Much security to get in, dogs, scanning and searches, but  once you  get in everyone is extremely helpful and eager to please. I seem to be an anomaly with my blond hair and height, so everyone stares, which I am getting used to.

 I am being very spoiled with a guide and a car with a driver who takes me anywhere I want to go and waits for me! Thank goodness for this or I would be riding a motorbike  wearing a sari clinging for dear life to the back of someone! This seems to be the preferred method of transportation as everyone weaves seamlessly through the congested streets-buses, bikes, water buffalo, cars and mini taxis. There are no lines on the road or lights.It works amazingly well. I did the cross a street once and was surprised to reach the other side with all my limbs intact.

7 million people live in Hyderabad . The women wear beautiful sparkling saris, and there are no black clothes except among the muslim women. Interspersed among the beauty is a terrible poverty. It is hard to see where one could start to make a difference here. There are huge luxury hotels and tent shacks next to them. To give to one would mean to be mobbed by many, and it is heartbreaking to see the mothers with their naked children begging in the street.

But it is not all bad. People seem to be happy and  there is a balance of faith and optimism.  There are beautiful temples, and many Hindu gods and goddess statues decorating the shops. My first day was spent exploring the bazaars and shops. I am trying to stimulate the economy- I may have to leave all my clothes here to bring things back! The city is known for it’s pearls and bangles. There are textiles and saris, fruit stands and pharmacies that sell every kind of herb. Many women vendors have the entire family in the stall, and each child has a special job to show you products and wrap up your purchases. Their faces are very expressive although when I take their pictures they become very serious and I have to coax them to smile! As I walk the people  like to practice their English around me and I have been greeted with, “Hello! How are are you doing today? You are looking very pretty today!” A group of teenager boys told me I was cute!( Have not heard that for awhile! ) A mother called “Miss-miss, would you shake my sons hand?” he was about four, and solemnly extended his small hand and I shook it and said”How do you do!” It seems that smiling at people is unexpected, so I do that as often as possible. Although, this seems to be working too well on the woman who searches me at the door to the hotel, so I may start to take on a more serious face with her.

The food is, Indian. I like Indian food but was hoping for what I am used to for dinner last night. I ordered an American dish but it stilll tasted like Indian food!

Yesterday I was picked up at 9 am and visited a museum, a palace, a bazaar, a fort with 780 steps to the top ( I was not told this until the first step!) a sari shop and several tombs. After professing foot fatigue, I was finally taken home, disappointment on the face of the guide, The sun had set, and  it was 7:30! I felt inadequate to say the least. The museums and palaces were beautiful.

I have not seen any yoga studios at all. I am not even sure anyone practices yoga here! Tomorrow I will go to the one studio I found (googled it) for a one on one class with the yogi there. This is the way he teaches- no group classes. It should prove interesting. I will probably see you all next spring, and hope you are toasty warm and sitting with a mug of hot chocolate in front of a fire with your dog at your feet.

My day begins as yours is ending. The sun is peaking up over the lake the hotel faces, and I am getting ready to practice, and then brave my fierce tour and shopping guides as we explore Hyderabad again today!

In case you were wondering, here is the plan: fly to Hyderabad, India for the week. Business meetings for Larry. Liz explores the city with a guide to find the essence of this amazing place. This includes yoga with a teacher who has studied directly with TKV Desikachar, author of “The Heart of Yoga”, a wonderful book about vinyasa yoga and Krishnamacharya, who is considered the father of vinyasa and is the teacher of Iyengar and K. Pattabhi Jois (Ashtanga yoga). I also hope to have some Ayurvedic treatments with Ayurvedic doctors that look weird, scary and wonderful-Ayurveda is the sister science of yoga, and looks to treat the cause of disease rather than the symptoms. Lastly, major shopping expeditions!
Then off to South India,Kerala to get out of the city and into the mountains and backwaters. I won’t tell you too much- you will have to wait for more India adventures as they occur!

So, onward with the journey. Arrived in London to be grounded again due to no flights to Hyderabad on Sundays. No problem! I love London! Hop on the Heathrow Express and the tube(London underground) just in time to attend a service at Westminster Abbey. Sat in the front row where worship has happened daily for 1000 years. Talk about sacred space. Behind and all around this main altar are tombs of many of Englands kings and queens, poets and statesmen. I imagined them all seated around us in their different centuries of dress praying with us. Then I closed my eyes and the organ playing felt as though it resonated right through my heart space. It felt similiar to the crystal chakra bowls Val and Ian play for us.it was very moving to be in such a sacred space.
After the service we walked to the London Eye. This is a huge ferris wheel with capsules built to celebrate the millenium. I remember seeing it and wondering what idiot would possibly want to be suspended up over the Thames river 443 feet into the sky! Well, that idiot was me, enjoying an incredible and surreal nighttime view of London! You feel suspended over the city- the Eye only moves .85 feet a second. It felt very stable and safe , but I have to admit I did not lean on the sides! There was a family with 2 toddlers in with us who joyfully ran around and layed on the floor to gaze out the glass sides of the capsule . No fear at all!

Today we fly to India. Time zones dictate that when we are awake you will be sleeping and we will already be in the next day! I love the idea of time traveling and I invite you to come along. One of my students told me that your first trip to India changes you. It is a little scary to let go of the comfortable space that you are in and change! I am ready though, and look forward to the inner and outer journey. Until we meet again.